Monday, May 16, 2011

Mojacar, May 12th to 15th


Such a pretty town, but so depressing at the moment. We’ve totally seen the effects of the economic crisis in Mojacar. It’s a lovely little white town perched on top of a steep hill just next to the sea, way down on the southeast coast. It was a serious tourist boom town full of British. All the signs are in English and there are more fish and chips restaurants than beach pajella shacks. Our campsite too was totally bizarre. It was absolutely massive with tennis courts, boxing ring, 4 hot tubs, huge restaurant, bungalows and mobile homes, and it was totally empty except for us and one other Spanish family. It was eerie. Everywhere else we’ve been the campsites have been at least a third full. The biggest hotel on the beach was shut down and half of the apartments and homes had for sale signs in the windows. It was kinda sad to think about all the british pensioners that sunk their savings in these apartments in Mojacar only to go into foreclosure or default. Needless to say the Spanish tour industry must be suffering bigtime. Yikes.
Anyway, I’m feeling a bit melancholy about this little boy we met yesterday, Bradley. Such a cute little kid. He matched Miles in energy and orneriness in every way. The only differences between the two were their accents and the color of their little bodies. Bradley has very white skin and super white hair. And he says things like, “I’m going swimming now I am.”  His grandmother told me that his mother abandoned him when he was 20 moths old and that social services took him away from her. She was leaving him at home alone and going out clubbing all night. The only people who could take him on were them, his grandparents. They are in their mid seventies and Bradley is just three and a half. I have a hard time keeping up with Miles, I can’t imagine how they feel. They seemed exhausted but nevertheless happy to be taking care of this little boy. He was very sweet and he cried when we all parted. We were supposed to meet again on the beach today but it’s cold and cloudy. Ah! So sad!!
Anyway, we’re leaving Mojacar behind and are returning to a little beach town called Peniscola. It’s further up the coast, south of Barcelona. We’ve modified our trip a bit are going to go back up this coast and then cut northwest through Rioja to San Sebastian and Bilbao. Right now we’re driving through such a pretty landscape. It could be Colorado and the area around Grand Junction. Lots of red rocky hills and mountains punctuated by low brush bushes and pine trees. Only difference here is the palm trees, and the flowers. One strange blur on the countryside are the greenhouses. Every now and then we’ll see a hillside or valley covered in white plastic. I guess most of Britain’s tomatoes and vegetables are grown around here. Nearly the entire coast of southeast Spain is covered in these white plastic greenhouses. It’s really strange actually and I’ve never seen anything like it.
Our camper all alone in the deserted campsite of Mojacar.

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